Anything that replaces, protects, or reshapes the truck's sheet metal and panels: fender flares and high-clearance fender kits, inner fender liners, tube doors, tailgate plates and hardware, grille pieces, and panel guards. Bumpers, sliders, and skid plates live in their own armor collections — this shelf is for the bodywork itself, which is why it runs so deep.

Yes — at full compression, which is where it counts. Tires rarely rub sitting still; they rub with the suspension stuffed and the wheel turned, and that's exactly the material these kits remove or reshape. Results still depend on tire size, backspacing, and lift, and many kits require cutting, so identify your actual rub points before committing.

Usually they coexist fine, but the edges are where trouble lives — slider mounting plates, bumper corners, and flare returns can compete for the same few inches of body. Read the listing's compatibility notes for known conflicts, and if you're mixing parts from different fabricators, ask us to sanity-check the pairing before you order.

Because the factory plastic tears out with bigger tires, and then mud has an open door to your engine bay, wiring, and frame cavities. Aftermarket liners restore that barrier in tougher material shaped around larger tires and real suspension flex. They're an unglamorous part you appreciate most on the first muddy trip after installing them.

No — expect black powder coat, bare aluminum, or raw steel depending on the part, with paint-matching left to you and your body shop. Most people run them as delivered, since trail parts collect scars anyway. If finish matters to you, check each listing for material and coating so your painter knows what surface they're prepping.